Pausanias Analysis

Pharae, a city of the Achaians, belongs administratively to Patrae by decree of Augustus. From the city of Patrae to Pharae is one hundred and fifty stades, and from the sea inland towards the mainland about seventy stades. Near Pharae flows the river Pieros, which, in my opinion, is the same river that passes by the ruins of Olenus, called Peiros by those living along the coast. Beside the river stands a grove of plane trees; most of these trees are hollow due to their great age and have attained such a size that people hold gatherings within their hollows, and indeed anyone who wishes can even sleep inside them.

In Pharae there is a large enclosure for the marketplace in the old style. In the middle of the market square is a stone statue of Hermes, having a beard; this statue stands directly on the ground, rectangular in shape and not very large. Upon it is an inscription stating that it was dedicated by Simylus the Messenian. The statue is called Hermes Agoraios, and beside it an oracle has been established. In front of the statue lies a hearth, itself also made of stone, and bronze lamps are attached to it with lead.

Arriving around evening, the inquirer of the god burns incense upon the hearth, fills the lamps with oil, lights them, and places a local coin—called a chalkous—in the right hand upon the altar of the statue. He then whispers at the god’s ear whatever question each has in mind. After this, he departs from the marketplace, covering his ears completely. Having gone forth beyond it, he removes his hands from his ears, and the first voice he overhears he considers as the god’s oracle.

A similar mode of divination concerning Apis has also been established among the Egyptians. At Pharae, there is sacred water associated with Hermes; it is called the Spring of Hermes, and no one catches the fish from it, for they consider these dedicated to the god. Near the statue stand about thirty square stones; these the people of Pharae reverence, giving each one the name of a particular deity. Indeed, in older times, all Greeks originally paid their honors to the gods with simple, unworked stones instead of statues.

About fifteen stades beyond the city of Pharae there is a grove sacred to the Dioscuri. Laurels especially grow there; but in it there was neither temple nor images, since, according to the local inhabitants, the statues had been carried away to Rome. In Pharae, within this grove, there is an altar built of selected stones. But I was unable to ascertain whether the founder was Pharis, son of Phylodameia, daughter of Danaus, or another of the same name.

Triteia is also a city of the Achaeans; though situated inland, its people likewise pay tribute to Patrae, by royal decree. From Pharae to Triteia is one hundred and twenty stadia. Before entering the city there is a tomb constructed of white marble, remarkable for many reasons, but especially for the paintings on it, done by Nikias himself. Depicted there is an ivory throne and upon it a young woman of exceptional beauty; beside her stands a servant-girl carrying a sunshade.

There is also an upright figure of a youth, still beardless, who wears a tunic and over it a crimson cloak. Beside him stands a servant carrying hunting spears and leading dogs suitable for men's hunting pursuits. We were not able to discover their names, but it appeared clear to everyone that a man and a woman were buried together in a common tomb.

Concerning the foundation of Triteia, some people say that it was founded by Celbidas, who arrived from Cumae in Opicia; but others say that Ares had intercourse with Triteia, daughter of Triton, who was a priestess of Athena, and that Melanippus, the son of Ares and Triteia, established the city after it had grown in population, and named it after his mother.

In Triteia there is a sanctuary of the gods called the Greatest Gods, whose images are made of clay. Annually, the inhabitants hold a festival for them, celebrated exactly as the Greeks honor Dionysus. There is also a temple of Athena; her statue in our time is of stone, but the ancient one was taken off to Rome, as the people of Triteia say. The local custom here is also to offer sacrifices to Ares and to Triteia herself.

These cities, then, lie inland away from the sea and are firmly situated on the mainland. Sailing from Patrae towards Aegium, one first encounters the promontory named Rhion, at a distance of fifty stades from Patrae. Fifteen stades further than this promontory lies the harbor called Panormus, and at an equal distance again from Panormus is the place known as the Wall of Athena. Sailing from the Wall of Athena to the harbor Erineus is a voyage of ninety stades, and from Erineus to Aegium it is sixty stades. The land route falls short of that number by roughly forty stades.

Not far from the city of Patrae is the river Meilichos and the sanctuary of Triklaria, which no longer has any statue within it. This sanctuary lies on the right hand. After passing beyond the Meilichos, there is another stream, called the Charadros. In the season of spring, herds drinking from this river generally produce male offspring; on this account, indeed, the shepherds move their flocks elsewhere into another region—except for their cows, which they leave near the river, since bulls are more suitable both for sacrifices and for labor than cows. But among other kinds of livestock, female animals are generally regarded as more valuable.